Doll Process

If you are interested in how I make my porcelain dolls you can read about the process of making ball jointed dolls here.

  Step 1 - Developing an idea.

  My inspiration and ideas are derived from many sources. Fantasy artworks, paintings and/or just an interesting face usually inspire me. I then begin to sketch and draw my ideas. I try to visualize the idea as a finished doll, and begin the preparations into making it into reality. During this process I modify the process many times. It is almost as the doll itself is telling me what she wants.

Step 2 – Sculpting and mold making.

  To begin the process I create a master sculpture using clay such as Super Sculpey. During this stage I create all the ball joints and mechanisms involved. I carefully check all the joints and modify them as many times as I have to in order to obtain a perfect fit. The primary goal here is in creating fully functional and anatomically correct body parts with its proper movements. I then make a set of plaster molds of each part for porcelain casting. This process usually takes a long time. Many hours and days go into sculpting and creating the molds. (Lots of frustrations, sweat and even some tears.) Usually these molds are only good for a few castings, and would have to be remade over again.

  Step 3 – Casting and cleaning.

  Here in this step I begin by poring the porcelain slip into the plaster molds and let it set from 5 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the parts. The next step is to take out the casted part from the mold. I clean them with a wet brush and trim some of the excess off the seams, open up the joint openings and drill holes for the stringing process. These porcelain casts are very fragile so I treat them gently for it can easily leave fingerprints and marks on them.

  Step 4 – Drying and firing.

  I let the pieces dry for a couple of days. After they dry I place them in my kiln for prefire. Set the temperature to 1200 degrees F for 3 hours. The kiln must cool down on its own for 6 to 8 hours before opening and removing the pieces. The porcelain pieces are soft and fragile like an eggshell. These parts will require being soaked in water while gently scrubbing the surface with a fine sponge to remove the seam lines and surface imperfections making the porcelain surface smooth. This cleaning process usually takes 5 to 6 hours. Then the pieces need to dry for a couple of days again.

  Step 5 – Final high temperature firing.

  I place all of my pieces in the kiln, which is designed for ceramics. I fire the kiln at a very high temperature 2240 degrees F for 10 hours. The kiln cannot be opened immediately after the process is done. I have to wait at least 9 to 10 hours allowing the kiln to cool down on it’s own. A sudden change in temperature can damage the kiln as well as crack all the porcelain pieces.

  Step 6 – China painting and firing.

  I paint the doll parts with china paint. The china paint is semi transparent and does not dry on it’s own. To get rich and saturated colors will require multiple separate layers of paint. To do this the process must be repeated many times. Every coating of paint must be fired in the kiln at 1370 degrees F for 3 hours to achieve a molecular bond to the porcelain. The kiln must be allowed to cool down again on it’s own for the same amount of time. Depending on the saturation and richness of the colors desired this process could take many days to complete. The china paint becomes molecular bonded and permanent with the porcelain. It will not scratch or fade, its timeless beauty.

  Step 7 – Stringing preparations.

  After the painting process I begin to cut the metal bars for the stringing process. I cut each metal bar from stainless steel wire and glue them with a strong bonding epoxy, making sure that each and every piece fits perfectly. I cut leather strips from patterns, which I had made to line every joint opening with this thin leather. This leather lining is essential for smooth joint articulation, allowing the dolls to achieve a variety of poses.

  Step 8 – Stringing process.

  I string the dolls with stainless steel springs of selected tensions for the different parts of the doll. Each joint is isolated with stainless steel hooks and strung with the springs. Each spring is strung with a selected degree of tension. The tension of the springs is extremely important to achieve the desired movements from the joints and to hold the doll’s pose. The torso and head is strung together from a strong elastic cord.

  Step 9 – The finished doll.

  After all the painting and stringing the doll has finally come to life. I either create or use a custom wig for her. Now she is ready to be dressed and displayed as you wish.

The doll process that I have used is based on the late Martha Armstrong Hand techniques. She was a master on making posable porcelain ball jointed dolls. My techniques has been learned from her writings, she has been my inspiration.